KARTINI: What is with kebaya and cooking competition?

For many Indonesian women who grew up during the regime of Second Indonesian President, Suharto, being a girl on Kartini Day means “kebaya-an” (wearing a traditional Javanese blouse dress) or dressing up in traditional costume, while some older women participated in cooking, flower arrangement, and make up competition. This celebration was meant to commemorate Kartini’s effort on women empowerment during Dutch colonial day. From the Old Order regime (Sukarno era) up until now, Kartini is hailed as a national symbol and pioneer of women emancipation in Indonesia.

Being born 137 years ago on April 21 1879, Kartini was part of a Javanese aristocrat and the 5th daughter of 11 of Raden Mas Adipati Ario Sosroningrat, while her mother was her father’s secondary wife. Her father was the Regent of Jepara and one of 80 such native regents who held office through the Dutch colonial system, thus her family was considered to have a high social status among the natives. She got a chance to attend ELS (Europese Lagere School), where she became a passionate reader and fluent in Dutch, a rare accomplishment for Javanese women at her time. However, due to Javanese nobility tradition called Pingit or seclusion until the age of 12 before went to marriage, she has to be confined in her home.

From that point, Kartini spent her time reading a lot of newspapers, magazines, novels, and textbooks. She also corresponded with her schoolmates and Dutch officials, but perhaps the most influential person she interacted with was Rosa Abendanon-Mandri, the Spanish wife of J.H. Abendanon. Later, Kartini married a Regent of Rembang, Raden Adipati Djoyo Adiningrat and became his fourth wives (it is usual to have polygamous marriage in Javanese culture back in colonial era) through an arranged marriage by her parents. Unfortunately, she passed away the next year after delivering a baby boy in 1904. Five years after Kartini passed away, Abendanon collected all of Kartini’s letters and published it into a book, Door Duisternis Tot Licht means “From Darkness to Light”.[1]

During President Sukarno era in 1964, Kartini was declared as a national heroine, Kartini Day was established as a national holiday and is held on the anniversary of her birth, April 21. This is to commemorate her dedication on improving the conditions of Indonesian women who have low social status, through education. Other than that, she also challenged the idea and concept of education system and mainstream religion in her era, an unusual accomplishment for women in colonial days.

When President Suharto reigned in 1965 until 1998, the image of Kartini as pioneer of women emancipation figure has shifted and narrowed to a dutiful wife and domesticated women. She became a perfect example of mother role. All over Indonesia, women wear their national dress, nation enjoys lectures, school activities, parades, and competition to win a shiny trophy. Women replicated Kartini’s attire (kebaya) but in reality wearing an invented and more constricting ensemble than she ever did.[2] While this practice provides settings which students can be exposed to Indonesian history and its rich cultural diversity, also to promote the unity of different ethnicities of Indonesia, it also demoted Kartini’s role by de-emphasize the essential of Kartini’s legacy to support the rights of Indonesian women on achieving progress through education.

To understand how the New Order regime picturized the role of women, one can reflect to Suryakusuma on her book “State of Ibuism: The Social Construction of Womanhood in the Indonesian New Order”, the first gender analysis of the Indonesia New Order era (Ibu refers to mother, Ibuism: motherhood). She argued that women’s gender role was heavily defined and arranged through state-engineered program. Women were seen as supporters of their husbands, through participation on organizations for the wives of civil servants’ like Family Welfare Movement (PKK) and Dharma Wanita.[3] The New Order regime seems to construct feminism and fill the normative role for women in Indonesia on purpose. In addition, due to the alignment with religious scripture interpretation, this method gained massive supports, hasting Suharto’s method on constraining the role of women, hence limiting the possible future activism of women in Indonesia. Further, the New Order arrogated Kartini’s work and identity by celebrating Kartini Day with women and schoolgirls wearing traditional costume, followed by cooking, make-up, and fashion show competitions to generate subtle messages the best way to appreciate Kartini is by being feminine and conformable women.

On another article “Is State Ibuism Still Relevant?”, Suryakusuma explained how authoritarian government prioritized economic development and national stability. Politics was therefore seen as a risk to national stability, which the regime saw as a prerequisite for that development. Making up half of the population, women – including poor women – were depoliticized and mobilized to support the New Order’s developmentalist goals through a series of highly interventionist state institutions.[4]
By practicing Kartini Day in such manner, what part of history did it exclude? Celebrating Kartini Day should rather be also about remembering her ideas and what she fought for. To understand Kartini is to look into complexity of Islam, nation-building and Western Value (Yulius 2016). As Yulius on “Kartini: Between Islam, Nation-Building and Feminism” explained:
“…her interest in Western knowledge coincided with her love and respect for her family and nation. Consequently, although she was fascinated with the advancement of women’s rights in the West, she could not entirely detach herself from either Javanese culture or Islamic values. Some resources even indicated that she was a disciple of famous Islamic scholar K. Saleh Darat as-Samarani (1820-1903)…” [5]

Kartini’s fondness of Western culture is coexisted with her respect for her own culture and background. She went against herself on her view about polygamous marriage that she strongly opposed, when she decided to accept her father requests of arranged marriage with Regent of Rembang who already had 3 wives and 25 years older than she was. In addition, a year prior to her marriage, she obtained a scholarship to study in Holland, but decided to reject it as her family press her to get married instead. On Kartini’s letter to Estella Zeehandelaar, she wrote:
“Nothing can be done about it, one fine day it will happen, must happen, that I will follow along behind an unknown husband. Love is a fairytale in our Javanese world. How can husband and wife love each other if they only see each other for the first time when they are already well and truly bound in marriage?” [6]

She still followed the Javanese gender ideal of being mother, supporting husbands in the way of preparing the next generation. But rather than lose herself in further marriage question, in 1903 she asked her husband’s permission to open the first-ever all-girls school for daughters of Javanese officials. The school aimed for character development of young women, while also provide vocational training and general education in art, literature, and science.[7] By the time she passed away, the school had 120 students.

Other things to remark are the downsides of the single practice of Kartini Day to celebrate women movements in Indonesia. As Mr. Masuda explained in his lecture on week 8, the study of particular movement sometimes does not put attention to ordinary population. Powerful feminists from Indonesia such as Cut Nyak Dien, Cut Meutia, Martha Christina, and other Indonesian female heroines who fought colonialism in battlefield, might not be suitable for the New Order regime that defends patriarchal hegemony. Sukarno choice of Kartini, further strongly supported and applied in the New Order era, also describe ethnicity dominance of Javanese, reducing local histories of women movements from other parts of Indonesia by just one single event celebration throughout the country. It only explores the specific narratives through Kartini’s lenses, prevent us from seeing the progress of women movements in Indonesia in much broader contexts.

Nevertheless, in Indonesia male dominated society, Kartini’s legacy still remain strong. Nowadays, she is still recognized as national symbol of women struggles to free themselves from the shackles of ignorance, feudalism, and patriarchal construction in society. With her minds, she opened horizons for Indonesian women that change is possible within society. Her establishment of school for girls, her writings and also her life, shows possibilities and limitations of gender equality in Indonesia.



[1] Celarent, Barbara. 2105. "Can't Catch a Break." American Journal of Sociology 1004-1015.

[2]Ramusack, Barbara N. 2005. "Women and Gender in South and Southeast Asia." In Women's History in Global Perspective, by Bonnie G. Smith, 101-138. Champaign: University of Illinois Press.

[3] Suryakusuma, Julia I. 2011. State Ibuism: The Social Construction of Womanhood in the Indonesian New Order. Depok: Komunitas Bambu.

[4]Suryakusuma, Julia I. 2012. Is State Ibuism Still Relevant? July 1. Accessed October 17, 2016. http://www.insideindonesia.org.

[5] Yulius, Hendri. 2016. Kartini: Between Islam, Nation-Building and Feminism. April 21. Accessed October 17, 2016. http://www.thejakartapost.com.

[6] Kartini. 2005. On Feminism and Nationalism: Kartini's Letters to Stella Zeehandelaar, 1899-1903. Edited by Joost Coté. Translated by Joost Coté. Clayton: Monash Asia Institute.

[7] Hurights Osaka. 2009. Raden Ajeng Kartini: Indonesia's Feminist Educator. June. Accessed October 17, 2016. http://www.hurights.or.jp.

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